The Cosplay Book of Ballgowns by Kelley Kullman

Author:Kelley Kullman
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: C&T Publishing

GATHER AND JOIN THE TIERS

1. Gather the unhemmed edge of the bottom tier to match the length of the adjacent tier.

2. With right sides together, nest the adjacent tier inside the bottom tier, with edges pinned together. Sew the tiers together, adjusting the gathers as needed. The bottom tier should pouf out a bit where it hangs from the adjacent tier.

3. Repeat the gathering method of choice to connect the remaining tiers. Gather the free edge of the top tier to match your waist measurement.

4. Before adding the waistband, try on the petticoat, with a hoop skirt, if applicable. Consider volume—have you achieved the shape and size you want? Keep in mind that heavy skirt fabric can compress the petticoat down significantly, so it might be a good idea to make it just a little poufier than your final desired size.

5. Once you are happy with the shape and volume of the petticoat, you can move on to the waistband.

Tip

Adding Petticoat Volume

If you want more volume, it’s as easy as cutting and gathering more tiers, using the same measurements and instructions as for the original petticoat. You don’t necessarily have to create a complete second layer with four tiers, especially if you are only looking for more flare; you can add additional layers starting at any of the tier seams to add volume below that point.

•For a more mermaid-style flare, or extra pouf and body only at the bottom of the petticoat, cut and gather an additional bottom-tier piece and attach it to the same seam that joined the original bottom tier to the one above it.

•For more body throughout, make an extra layer with the second, third, and fourth tiers and sew it to the same seam that joined the original top two tiers.

•Experiment and add partial layers or extra tiers as you choose. However, we advise not connecting more than two gathered tiers to any single-layer tier above it—so if you find you need three pieces of the bottom tier to get the amount of volume you want, you need to attach them to at least two layers of the adjacent tier.

MAKE THE WAISTBAND

We suggest a 2˝ finished waistband, which is wide enough to be comfortable and secure, but narrow enough that additional tailoring to fit your waist isn’t needed.

1. Use a sturdy, non-stretch fabric like twill or heavy cotton. Cut 1 piece on the fabric grain 5˝ wide by your waist measurement + 4˝.

2. Press ½˝ to the wrong side on each long edge.

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